From the "healthiest and most hygienic drink there is<" dating back to the 20th century to recent consumer studies on pesticide residue analyses in the final product, wine is a pleasure product that has followed and undergone societal changes for several decades now.
A cultural product resilient to societal changes
In a society in search of meaning, populated by a continuously increasing number of consumers, organic wine emerges as a virtuous solution that addresses the sustainability challenges of our era:
- A reduction in pesticides applied to vineyards that limits the environmental footprint;
- A reduction of residues in the final product that offers consumers healthy products;
- A better remuneration for the winemaker that secures their activity and, on a larger scale, the economy of a territory.
In recent years, the rise of labels in viticulture has sought to materialize this solution in the eyes of consumers, but their multiplicity can lead to confusion and indecision: Organic Farming, Bee Friendly, Terra Vitis, biodynamic, natural, sulfite-free, high environmental value, etc. What is the difference between these labels? What relevance do they have for consumers? What sustainability and what impacts do they have on the wine sector? A closer look at "organic" wines.
The family of organic wines: what labels for what causes?
Between commercial brands, Controlled Designation of Origin, organic farming, and High Environmental Value certification, it can sometimes be complicated to know which product we are buying and what values are being defended through our purchasing act: a closer look at organic wines.
A specification for a commitment
These different labels defend various values and priorities. Under the "organic wines" category, they all share a commitment to viticulture without synthetic chemicals. A priority and essential criterion for the "Organic Agriculture" label from the European Commission, it mainly concerns operations carried out in the vineyards; the winemaker has some flexibility regarding the operations performed. By taking the analysis a step further, we can distinguish three sub-groups within organic wines:
- The Nature & Progress or Biocoherence labels carry environmental and local values. In addition to adhering to the specifications of Organic Agriculture, these labels also include operations concerning winemaking. Another major distinguishing criterion compared to European and French organic agriculture is that the marketing of wines must be done through specialized stores and at a local territorial scale (large retailers and so-called "long" circuits are not authorized distribution channels);
- The collective brand Demeter and the Biodyvin label will defend the values of biodynamics applied to viticulture. Biodynamics is a form of organic farming that relies on a cyclical and holistic view of agriculture: agricultural diversification within the same farm is favored to achieve farm autonomy and to consider it as a living ecosystem;
- Still in the search for a virtuous product for the environment, natural wines are organic or biodynamic in addition to being beneficial for consumer health: they are vinified and bottled without any additives or inputs. The addition of sulfur is not allowed for wines "Without Any Inputs or Sulfites" or S.A.I.N.S.; it is very limited for wines labeled "Association of Natural Wines" or AVN;
- Environmental certifications of the HVE type particularly highlight the overall approach of the vineyard operation to respect its environment: the biodiversity aspect is particularly important compared to the other labels mentioned above. The Terra Vitis certification is a High Environmental Value certification of level 2 recognized by the State for viticulture.
All carriers of virtuous values for health and the environment, these labels are initiated, supported, and managed by different actors: some information to discuss the guarantee of its values for the consumer.
Collective brands, certifications, SIQO, etc.: what governance for what guarantee?
The term "label" encompasses both SIQO, collective brands, and commitments. Three major systems of governance have been identified.
- Only the Organic Farming label is part of the Quality and Origin Identification Signs (SIQO) and is subject to a multi-stakeholder governance recognized at the national and international level: the drafting of the specifications, the control of its implementation, the production of grapes and wines are, respectively, under the responsibility of the INAO (see box below), the certifying body, and the winemaker.
- Wines labeled Nature & Progrès or Biocohérence, biodynamic (Demeter, Biodyvin) and natural (AVN, S.A.I.N.S.) comply with a specification drafted by associations, federations, or unions that uphold their values.
The oversight of compliance and implementation of these specifications is the responsibility of a recognized and independent certifying body accredited by INAO for the Biodyvin, Nature & Progrès, and Biocohérence labels; it is managed by the Demeter association itself for the eponymous collective brand.
Natural wines, for their part, are entirely managed by the association responsible for the specifications.
- Wines certified "Terra Vitis" or "HVE3" comply with a specification drafted by the Ministry of Agriculture and highlight the investment of the farm in a comprehensive sustainable development approach. This certification is issued by the state through a certifying body also accredited by the state. Just like wines under SIQO, the drafting of the specifications, the monitoring of compliance, and the production of grapes and wines are the responsibility of three different actors.
- Wines with environmental certification emphasize the operational approach< rather than promoting practices by agricultural sector.
Despite the diversity of labels, brands, and certifications available to differentiate wines, viticulture is currently experiencing a difficult period: lack of competitiveness, declining consumer interest, constantly evolving regulations, etc. What are the reasons for this disinterest in wine? What potential avenues of reflection and levers can be mobilized to revitalize this wine sector, which is currently losing momentum, while it is the source of our territory's global reputation?
Having one of the "organic wine" labels: the future standard?
On a French scale, a study conducted by France AgriMer analyzes the evolution of alcohol consumption at the primary residence (excluding consumption during vacations, in restaurants, cafes, etc.). Over the last ten years (2008 to 2017), wine consumption per household has decreased by 23%, which represents 1 less bottle per month. This decline is primarily due to a drop in red wine consumption (-37% over 10 years, or 9 liters per year per household). In contrast, the market for wine produced under organic farming labels in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region has been increasing by 10% per year [1] over the last five years. The marketing of wines certified HVE, Terra Vitis, or natural logos is too recent to assess the evolution of this still nascent market.
Some of these wine labels help meet societal expectations and reach a broader audience thanks to the virtuous values they uphold and the governance systems they propose. However, the wine industry remains uncertain regarding the sustainability of these economic models for winemakers and the long-term environmental impact of practices. A prospective study conducted by the British institute IWSR in 2018 estimates that the average price difference in France between a bottle of organic wine and conventional wine is 33%. Today considered a niche market, organic wines could become, in the medium term, the norm to meet consumer demand. Without a quality differentiation effect, the willingness to pay could decrease, thus negating the economic leverage for the winemaker...
Considered as a step rather than an end goal, organic viticulture aligns with an environmentally friendly agriculture for positive economic returns at the farm level. For greater sustainability, research and innovation are two major and relevant levers to be utilized to design techno-economic models that address the societal, environmental, and regulatory challenges of tomorrow. Aware of these challenges, Vertigo Lab supports the cooperative cellar of the Vignerons de Buzet to continue their commitment towards agro-ecological viticulture through the VitiREV program, a laureate of the Future Investment Program funded by the State.
Bibliography
- https://www.mon-viti.com/articles/viticulture/ab-terra-vitis-et-hve-quelles-differences-en-viticulture
- https://www.bordeaux.com/fr/Vignoble-engage/labels
- Natural wines
- HEALTHY wines
- Biocoherence
- Nature & Progress
- Demeter
- INAO
- France Agrimer Study – 2019 – "Evolution of alcoholic beverage purchases by French households for home consumption, between 2008 and 2017"
https://www.larvf.com/vin-bio-le-marche-francais-devrait-quasiment-doubler-d-ici-2022,4604404.asp
References
[1] Source: Morning Innovation organized by the Innovin cluster – intervention of the wine union of bios Nouvelle-Aquitaine.
